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Wednesday 25 December 2013

Christmas: Essex Archaeological News, Spring 1973

Essex Archaeological News, Spring 1973 (No 42)

CHRISTMAS

Christmastime led to some research into drinking habits, and in particular I met a retired grocer who talked at length on mulled ale. Apparently not so long ago it was the habit to mull ale oneself over the tap room fire, with the aid of a metal object like a long funnel with a sealed end.

The customer would call for his required spice from the publican, who would be expected to supply over the bar such spices as, cloves, ground ginger, cinnamon, peppercorn and others, on demand.

The customer then put spice and ale in the metal cone, and placed it in the fire to heat, removing and pouring out the mixture when it was judged to be hot enough.

Only last week I saw in a member's house an ale 'mullet.' and recognised it in spite of its gleaming copper appearance. This utensil had been black with use when brought home. I also learned of a boot shaped ‘muller' which would pass between the fire bars of a grate and achieve the same purpose.


Perhaps some of the old magic has gone out of life with the central heating hot-house. How welcome the hot, spiced drink must have been to those who felt the winter's cold, and clustered round the fire at the inn.

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